Chameleons have been kept in captivity for the last 20 years. Thousands of chameleons have been imported into the U.S. every year over the past two decades.
Until recently, widespread captive breeding has not occurred here in the U.S., and since then only with a few selective species.
Two chameleons that have reproduced in the U.S. with great success recently are the Jackson’s chameleon and the veiled chameleon. Most other chameleons are imported.
Natural History
Chameleons are arboreal, or tree-dwelling, insectivorous and carnivorous lizards of the “Old World,” including Africa, Asia, and Europe.
Unlike the New World chameleons, or anoles, true chameleons have a laterally compressed body, fused digits, and a prehensile tail.
They also have independently rotating eyes, a very long tongue, and the ability to “change color shades.”
They move with a halted gait that resembles leaves blowing in the wind. This movement is used when stalking insects as both eyes are focused forward on their prey.
The sticky-tipped tongue is projected outward and their prey is caught.
The Jackson’s chameleon is sexually dimorphic, as the males have horns.
Male veiled chameleons have spurs from their back feet.
Chameleons are easily stressed, and most do not enjoy being held.
Caging
Chameleons are territorial, solitary animals in the wild and should be kept singly in captivity except during breeding season.
Cage enclosures should be designed for space, ventilation, adequate lighting, and heat sources.
Cages should be made of glass, non-abrasive screens, wood, or hard plastics.
Cage décor should be sturdy live plants or trees.
Vines may also be pieced together and adorned with synthetic plants.
Live trees should have the soil covered with plastic or gravel to prevent insect prey from eating from fecal-contaminated soil.
The cage floor should be wired, allowing feces to drop through, or made from any cleanable flat surface.
The cage should have a basking spot and full-spectrum ultraviolet lighting.
Lighting
Incandescent bulbs used in aluminum-domed clip-on light fixtures should be placed outside the cage to prevent lighting burns.
Broad-spectrum lighting with ultraviolet should also be used to simulate the natural lighting of the sun.
Examples include:
- Exo Terra
- Lumichrome
- Chromalux
- Vita-lite
- Durotest
Ultraviolet lights are important for many natural behaviors, reproduction, and vitamin D3 production.
These lights are effective if they are two feet or less away from the chameleon and changed every six to eight months.
Glass and plastics filter out ultraviolet light as well.
Temperature
Desert species such as the veiled chameleon require basking spots reaching 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Tropical species such as C. parsoni, C. senegalensis, and C. pardalis require basking spots up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
The basking light sets up temperature gradients, and healthy chameleons regulate themselves by moving to a place in the cage that is comfortable for them.
Nighttime temperatures should drop 5–10 degrees Fahrenheit for both desert and tropical species.
Montane, or mountain-dwelling, species such as the Jackson’s chameleon, Fisher’s chameleon, mountain chameleon, and dwarf chameleons require lower temperatures.
Basking spots should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Humidity for most chameleons is best between 50–70%.
Watering and Feeding
Chameleons in the wild drink water as it condenses on leaves.
In captivity, this situation must also be duplicated.
Daily misting of leaves in the cage can provide water. Pet-store drip systems, IV bags and tubes, or an aquarium power-head fountain may also be used.
Sunken eyes can be a sign of dehydration.
Feeding and nutrition are extremely important.
Commercially available crickets are often deficient in nutrients such as protein, calcium, and vitamins.
The following guidelines will be helpful in feeding your chameleon.
Offer a variety of insects consisting of approximately 50% crickets and 50% other insects, including:
- Wax worms
- Mealworms
- King mealworms
- Madagascan hissing cockroaches
- South American cockroaches
- Silk moths
Supplement the diets of insects for several days prior to feeding.
Place a small dish of finely ground dog food with a calcium supplement, a slice of orange, and greens in with your crickets.
Female chameleons should be given more calcium supplementation during egg laying.
This can be accomplished by the “shake and bake” technique, coating the crickets with finely ground calcium powder such as Tums tablets of any flavor.
However, some chameleons do not like powdered crickets.
Whenever possible, supplement the diet with wild-caught insects.
Flies, grasshoppers, cockroaches, non-Monarch butterflies, moths, and other insects are all good supplements.
Newborn three- to four-day-old pinkie mice can be fed to larger species.
Common Medical Problems
- Parasites
- Metabolic bone disease, which occurs if eating non-gut-loaded insects or if not eating well
- Dehydration
- Stress
